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Excerpt from Chapter
XX Festival of Fat
23 October 1999
We are fortunate to live in the Loir et Cher
because the Mayor of our capital city is the former Minister
of Culture, Jack Lang. Even though he is no longer the Minister
of Culture he still wields great influence in the art world .
Many say that he is the minister to the minister and that he
is still consulted in all important matters. The result of this
influence and his obvious love for the arts is that this region
gets more than its share of cultural events. I went to Blois
to see what was going on with an exposition that I had seen advertised
in the paper. It was called Nourritures Terrestres and
was three days of seminars, conferences, debates, demonstrations
and a replicas of ancien markets. It was basically a three day
conference on the subject of food and wine. However the speakers
were not what you might ordinarily expect to hear at a conference
on food and wine. There were no chefs speaking on subjects like
the best way to make crème brûlée
or wine experts talking about legs, nose or bouquet. These speakers
were all university professors who were speaking about history,
culture and the anthropological significance of food and drink.
The seminars started mid morning and lasted until 10:00 p.m.
and there were three or four different seminars going on at the
same time. If you wanted to hear the seminar on the subject of
"Absinthe under the Third Republic", you might have
to miss the seminar on "Food and Colonization." Examples
of other titles are "Do the people of Provence really like
olive oil?", "Food for travel in the 19th Century",
"Jewish Food in Provence in the Middle Ages", Famines
of yesterday and today" etc. When I arrived at the Conference
Hall, I had a choice between the lectures on "Chocolate
from the seventeenth to the nineteenth Century" , "Funeral
Meals in Savoie in the Middle Ages" and "American Thanksgiving."
I really wanted to hear the other two lectures but I could not
pass up the chance to hear what the French thought of our Thanksgiving
celebration.
The seminar was presented by a scholar name
Monsieur Bernard Sinsheimer who spoke slowly and clearly so I
understood most of what he was saying. He started by describing
the Thanksgiving holiday as a festival of fat that is unique
in American culture not because of the fatty food but more so
because it is a holiday uniquely revered by Americans. He first
described how Americans generally have little respect for their
holidays. He said Americans will take a holiday like a former
President' s birthday and move it to a day that is more convenient
like a Monday so that everybody can have a long weekend. Or even
worse, Americans might combine all the birthdays of their presidents
into one day that is convenient and have only one celebration.
His point was that Americans don't revere the day or the event
as much as the long weekend off from work. He said that it is
this general lack of respect that makes the Thanksgiving celebration
so unique. Thanksgiving is devoutly and universally revered in
America. It is always celebrated on the fourth Thursday even
though Friday is a work day for many Americans. In addition to
this unique respect that Americans have for Thanksgiving, he
also pointed out that it is the one day of the year where American
families gather even from great distances to be together, and
it is celebrated by everyone regardless of race, religion or
creed. The professor also went into some detail about our unusual
eating habits and he describe the traditional dishes like sweet
potatoes, squash, corn, pumpkin pie, stuffing in the turkey and
giblet gravy. However the thing that brought gasps of surprise
to this small but intensely interested audience was his description
of placing the whole turkey on the table and someone trying to
carve it in front of everyone waiting to eat. I don't really
understand why carving the turkey on the table was such a horrendous
idea but it seemed to draw excited murmurs from our group. However,
the thing that really brought gasps of horror from the
audience was his description of what we drink with our Thanksgiving
meal. He said wine is rare but growing in popularity. Of course
this alone is enough to convince the French of our savagery but
for those not yet convinced, the coup de grâce was
the revelation that we drink iced tea and even Coca Cola with
the meal. After revealing this horror to us he said after a dramatic
pause "Some people even drink coffee with the meal."
The words "Quel horreur!" pealed from the audience.
The audience was intently interested in the
American Thanksgiving feast and many told stories of their experience
in America and how much they liked the food, especially the oyster
stuffing from New England. Others talked of the pumpkin pie and
sweet potatoes with Marshmallows on top. However the most humorous
thing that I heard was the description of everybody falling asleep
after dinner watching a football game.
I asked Professor Sinsheimer for a copy of
his lecture but he only had hand written notes and did not think
the lecture would be printed. I was fascinated and amused to
hear this description of America from the French point of view.
The lecture also gave me a better understanding of why my French
friends are so fascinated by my observations of their habits
and customs. It is one of those things where you say "Yeah,
that's true but I just never thought about it like that."
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